How to sew a lettuce edge hem
Learn how to sew a delicate and elegant lettuce hem! This charming and functional curly hem not only adds a touch of allure but also conserves fabric length, allowing you to achieve a stunning finish for your hems. Whether you’re working on a dress, a blouse, or any other garment, the lettuce edge technique will give your creations a unique and professional touch that is sure to impress.
I love how much prettiness a lettuce hem adds to basically any sewing project! While it’s more popular on little girls clothes, you can also see the adorable lettuce edge hem on women’s clothing too, particularly younger women, in items such as tops, cardigans and even dresses.
This step-by-step guide with video instructions will show you how to sew a lettuce hem without a serger, in no time. It is an extremely simple technique that you’ll love if you’re not familiar with it. Whether you want to experiment or crave a change, sewing a lettuce hem onto one of your clothes is a fun and easy sewing technique. Who said new outfits had to be expensive?
What is a lettuce hem?
A lettuce hem is an attractive and fun frilled hem that is applied to items sewn with knit or other stretch fabrics. This type of hem is a cute and quick way to finish off a skirt, dress, pinafore, shorts, sleeves etc. It’s a style of hem that is narrow and pulled up and away from the garment. Sewing lettuce hems adds a little touch of character and uniqueness.
This DIY lettuce hem not only looks pretty but is practical too as it adds no bulk to the hemline since the fabric is not turned up. A lettuce hem is also a good way to finish hemlines without making your project shorter so it’s great if you don’t have a lot of fabric available for your project.
Ready to learn how to sew a pretty hem and get professional-looking results every time? This simple and quick tutorial will walk you through the process of making a lettuce edge on a regular sewing machine. And after you test it once or twice, you’ll be sewing your lovely wavy hems in no time! Here’s how to make one!
How to sew a lettuce hem
Supply list for sewing a lettuce edge:
- lightweight or medium light knit fabric
- knit needle
- matching or contrast thread
- scissors
- sewing machine with zigzag stitch option
How to lettuce hem:
- Set your sewing machine to a zig zag stitch, a small stitch length and a small tension, as recommended in the video.
- Stretch the fabric to establish which way it curls, towards the right or wrong side.
- With the presser foot up, place the fabric under the foot with the curled side on top. Pull the raw edge of the fabric both front and back to form a roll and only then lower the presser foot to catch the roll.
- As you sew, keep pulling the fabric which will continue curling. Make sure you pull the fabric at the front AND at the back at the same time, trying to keep even pressure on each side.
- Once you’re done sewing, the fabric will regain its original shape while the lettuce edge stays longer than the fabric so it curls up and down in waves.
Tips for sewing the perfect lettuce hem
Find the direction of the stretch
As you probably noticed, thin knits curl up when you pull the edges and often times, the edge stays rolled up which eases your work a lot. Some knits stretch in one direction (and I find these are the easiest to work with when making a lettuce hem), while others stretch in both directions. To sew a lettuce edge you’ll need to sew with the stretch not against it. The fabric will stretch as you sew and then relax back again, creating that pretty curly finish.
Check the direction of the curl
Before proceeding to making a lettuce edge, check which way your fabric curls, towards the right or the wrong side. You want to work with the curl on the top (right side) as you sew. So it’s best if you first make a test on a small piece of knit scraps.
What is the best stitch for a lettuce hem?
You’ll also need to set your machine to a small zigzag stitch that fits the width of the curl. You also need to adjust the stitch length and the thread tension to a small setting that works best for the type of knit you’re using. So first, grab a straight piece of fabric and test, test, test!
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a rolled hem and a lettuce hem?
The main difference between a rolled hem and a lettuce hem is the appearance of the finished edge. A rolled hem has a smooth, flat edge while a lettuce hem has an undulating, frilly edge. Rolled hems are typically used on lightweight fabrics like silk or chiffon, while lettuce hems are more commonly seen on knit or stretch fabrics.
Another difference is in the sewing technique. A rolled hem is created by folding and sewing the fabric, while a lettuce hem involves stretching and gathering the edge of the fabric as it is being sewn.
What is the best fabric for a lettuce hem?
The best fabrics for a lettuce hem are knits and stretch fabrics. This is because these types of fabric have the necessary elasticity to create the curved and frilled edge of a lettuce hem. Some popular choices include jersey, spandex, rib knit, or any lightweight knit fabric with a good amount of stretch.
Additionally, fabrics that are thinner and more lightweight will produce a more pronounced lettuce hem, while thicker or heavier fabrics may have a less defined edge.
How to sew a lettuce hem by hand?
While it is much easier and faster to sew a lettuce hem using a sewing machine, it is possible to create one by hand. However a hand sewn lettuce hem will not look exactly as one sewn with a sewing machine, as it is more difficult to achieve the same level of stretch and gathering. Here are the steps to follow:
To sew a lettuce hem by hand, follow these steps:
- Begin by folding over the raw edge of the fabric about ¼ inch and stitch it down using a whipstitch or slip stitch.
- Once the entire edge is stitched down, gently pull on the thread to create gathers
- Secure the gathers by tying off the thread with a knot.
Another option is to hand sew a running stitch. Here’s how to do it:
- Start by folding over the raw edge of the fabric about ¼ inch and stitching it down with a running stitch.
- Once the entire edge is stitched, gently pull on the thread to gather the fabric.
- Continue pulling until you have achieved your desired level of frilliness.
- Secure the gathers with a knot and trim any excess thread.
- Adjust and distribute the gathers evenly along the edge.
- Press flat to set the ruffles in.
Similar tutorials you will love:
- Hemming sheer fabric without a rolled hem foot
- How to sew a flat felled seam
- Rolled hem using a rolled hem foot
- How to make bias tape without bias maker
- Best tips for sewing organza fabrics
Learning how to sew a lettuce hem is crazy easy, making it one of my most favorite ways to finish hemlines on knit fabrics. I’m lucky that I have a little daughter so I can apply this hem to a lot of projects! This method of sewing a lettuce hem works on knits or stretch fabrics not on woven fabric, silk or any other fabrics that don’t have any stretch in them. For those fabrics there are other methods, like fishing line or a serger.
If you decided to give this beautiful hem a try, please let me know your thoughts on how you found it in the comments below. And don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter for more amazing sewing tips. Happy sewing!
Print the craft card
How to sew a lettuce hem
Materials
- lightweight or medium light knit fabric
- matching or contrast thread
Tools
- knit needle
- scissors
Instructions
- Set your sewing machine to a zig zag stitch, a small stitch length and a small tension, as recommended in the video.
- Stretch the fabric to establish which way it curls, towards the right or wrong side.
- With the presser foot up, place the fabric under the foot with the curled side on top. Pull the raw edge of the fabric both front and back to form a roll and only then lower the presser foot to catch the roll.
- As you sew, keep pulling the fabric which will continue curling. Make sure you pull the fabric at the front AND at the back at the same time, trying to keep even pressure on each side.
- Once you're done sewing, the fabric will regain its original shape while the lettuce edge hem is longer so it curls up and down in waves.
Most popular sewing projects:
Article may contain Amazon & affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases at no additional cost to you.
ABOUT PETRO
Hi, I’m Petro, author and founder of Easy Peasy Creative Ideas. Sewist, crafter, avid DIY-er, foodie, photographer, homemaker and mommy to one. I’m an expert at coming up with quick, clever sewing tips, recycling crafts and simple, easy recipes! You can find my ideas featured in reputable publications such as Country Living, Good House Keeping, Yahoo News, WikiHow, Shutterfly, Parade, Brit & Co and more. Thanks for stopping by and hope you’ll stay for a while, get to know me better and come back another time. Stick around for real fun projects! Read more…